Pages

Friday, July 30, 2010

Heading for Home

I spent my last day here in Prague in a wonderful place. A place that gave me hope for the disabled of Prague. Erik (the guy Kate and I met yesterday) met us at the University and took us to Vysehrad. There we went to a facility that was remodeled and very accessible. It was a school for the disabled. It had a living area for people who were attending the school. Of course, they are on break so I didn't get to see any kids, but I met some very involved and very caring people who worked there. There was a program there Asistence, that helps people get jobs and personal assistants to help them.

We met the director of the documentary, Tomas Skrdlant. He set up his camera for the interview that he had asked us to be a part of in a pretty park right by the school. He had a very gentle manner and was so easy to talk to. We spent over an hour talking and filming the interviews. He even interviewed Kate. Then we saw the school together and the we all sat down and had coffee. During the interview I met another guy named Jakub, who has cerebral Palsey that also works for this program. We talked quite awhile about our experiences. This is what I had been longing for. I had really wanted to connect with the disabled world here in Prague and now--when my time is over, I meet these interesting people. We lingered with our conversations not really wanting it to end. I learned a lot on this excursion. I learned that there is a group of people who are trying to change things. Things are going slow--but they are hoping for faster progress. By making this documentary about the accessibility of Prague, they hope to persuade the elected officials of the city to take notice. I'm just a stranger in a strange land--and didn't really know what I was "stumbling" into when I came here. When I saw the lack of accessibility and barriers everywhere, I felt a strong urge to want to help. I had no idea that I would be able to. I did write my editorial for the Prague Post (an english newspaper published weekly here in Prague) and hope to send it in. It will be a great honor for me if I do indeed help them make a difference.

After spending the time at the school Erik took Kate and I around the area. It was the sight for the oldest castle in Prague. (but the castle is no longer there) It had a beautiful park that had some nice vistas of the city. We spent time meandering around just enjoying the greenery. I've really missed the nature of Colorado. It's hard to see any grass or trees in Prague unless you happen across some nooks--and there might be a lovely little park right in the city. This park was huge. There was also an old church that was beautiful. We went into the cemetery there and I was astonished at the gravestones there. It was so unique. I got to see the grave sight of the composer Dvorak. I was told all the important people of Prague are buried there. I would have loved to spend more time there and really see it but our time was limited. We had to get back for our closing party.

We were a little late in getting to the party because we had to wait for an accessible bus to get us to where the party was. I hadn't eaten since breakfast so I was hungry. I couldn't resist heading to McDonald's that was across from the bus stop. We had over 30 minutes to wait--so in we went. I was so amused by the "McWalk" window they had on the outside. There were no drive thru's. This window (which looked a little like a drive thru--but no speakers) you just walked up to and ordered your food and got it outside of the restaurant. I got a photo of it and will post it on FB later. Erik said that McDonalds always had accessible restaurants and bathrooms. He said that they often hired disabled people to work there also. (way to go Micky D's)

We did finally make it to the party and got to visit with all of our new old friends. Everyone wanted to hear about the interview and how it went. I am going to be sad to be leaving the people I have met. Hana, the in country coordinator has worked so hard to get me here and help me when the times were tough. My workshop group is a close group and I hope to keep in contact with many of them. With my new friends at Asistence I hope to keep in touch with as I find out when the documentary will be aired and if there is anything more I can do to help.

It's been an adventure. Maybe not what I had expected--but still full of challenges, fun and meeting new people. I'm not sure that I will be returning to Prague anytime soon. Perhaps when that "revolution" for the disabled occurs I will come back to celebrate it with them. Prague sort of made up its indifference to me today but putting those new people in my life. I guess I can forgive--but I will never forget.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Ready for my Close Up

Well...I've almost been here a month. My time is almost up. I wish I could say how sad I will be to leave this place--but it's not true. The curbs and cobblestones, negotiating tram tracks, rude and uncaring tram drivers, buildings with endless stairs I will not miss. These have been some of the things that have made my journey difficult. It's been a real test for me. I always thought I was so sure and confident but I found out here, I wasn't always. At times I really felt vulnerable--something I'm not really comfortable with. I was sometimes dependent and I didn't like that either. These felt uncomfortable yet I was able to get through it.

One of the things I will truly miss are the people I've met here. Some of the women I have met have worked their way into my heart with their passion for writing, ability to have fun and quirky-ness. We've shared our stories and our secrets with one another and have become a sort of family. I treasure these new friendships and hope they carry on long after I leave here.

I wanted to get out one last time today so Kate came to my dorm so we could take an excursion on the Metro. We had picked out a place that had a beautiful park in Vysehrad. It required that me make a change of lines at the metro. It seemed like it should be simple but it turned out it wasn't. We couldn't find the handicapped entrance to the other line--you'd think it would be right next to the other line. Kate went off in search while I waited. She returned with no good news--she couldn't find it. I said I see a guy in a wheelchair so maybe he knows where it is--if he speaks english, that is.

Well, it happened that he and his friend that was with him did speak english--very well. He told us that it was a little complicated to get to the other metro stop but told us the general direction. We began to talk and I found out that he was a teacher of social studies. His name was Radek and his friend was Erik. They were both actually waiting to meet with a director for a documentary they were making about the accessibility of Prague. I couldn't believe it! I told him I had a few things to say about it and that I had written and editorial that I hoped to send to the Prague Post. I shared about my frustrations with the trams, and the transportation schedule--everything that I have been sharing on this blog. Erik was the director for a group that helped the disabled get jobs. They said if I could wait around a bit that we should go with them to be interviewed. There would be about five other disabled people there also. We went trekking down the street quite a ways to where this new elevator had been put in near a school. Radek said that they had to get 10,000 signatures to get the money to have it built. It's the first one since 2006 that had been constructed. There I met two girls in power wheelchairs. They had been past students of Radek's. One had just graduated from college and was going to teach elementary school.

It turned out the the director did not want to do any interviews there because it was noisey and not a good backdrop anyway. I agreed to come back to Vysehrad (that's where their office is--and Radek's school where he teaches) tomorrow afternoon for an interview. So, I may be on some Czech documentary about accessiblity--if I don't end up on the cutting room floor. I'm looking forward to seeing the school. It was just serendipity that our paths would cross. I felt I had wanted to try to make a difference here--maybe this was my chance. I wish I would have met them sooner as I think I would have learned a lot about the city and how to get around in it. Radek did say that it was much better than 20 years ago. I told him I hated to think what it was like back then. I told him about the ADA in America and how we just celebrated the 20th anniversary. He said " so you see, it is possible to live here." But I thought--it's not living if you are excluded with countless barriers. I wish them luck with tearing down those barriers.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Czech traffic Jam

I understand why so many people here use the public transportation. If you don't have to wait for the accessible buses and trams, it seems quite easy and efficient. However, there are plenty of cars out there. I can't seem to understand their driving rules. There are no stop signs at corners as the cars just plow through without barely looking. People just walk into cross walks and the traffic is just supposed to stop. There are actual cross walks at the busier two lane roads. I try to stay with using those--as I hustle myself across before the tweeting sound goes slow again. I guess they give that noise (like at home) for the visually impaired so they know when to cross. I don't see how they don't stumble over the many cracks and bumps of the cobblestones.

Traffic seems to merge at will--left turners just get out there and turn in front of oncoming traffic including trams. Sometimes I see cars driving on the tram tracks and I can't help but wonder what would happen if a tram came on the tracks. I actually saw this happen a week ago. I think a tourist mistakenly went on the street that was only a stop for trams--and here one came. He moved the car out of the way and was trying to back out when another one came in the opposite direction. This would be my driving nightmare. He ended up going up on the sidewalk so the trams could pass. He had to have been a tourist. The roads are so narrow I can't believe we don't hit cars while riding a bus through them. The trams while passing each other going opposite ways pass so incredibly close that I could swear we are going to collide. One thing though, I really haven't seen too many traffic accidents. I hear sirens of police and ambulances blaring frequently but I always think that someone got hit by a tram. It seems like people do not pay attention the just go out in the street right when it's coming. I haven't seen it happen--but I think it did when I see an ambulance fly by. I sure look long and hard before I roll out there.

They are making changes on the roads here constantly so they have been changing tram schedules a lot. The tram that I catch to go the Ypsilon theater where the readings are, was removed from that stop. It was going to be too complicated trying to figure out how to get there so I had them set up this taxi service for the disabled (a wheelchair van) to take me to the theater and then pick me up and return me home a few hours later. Catching it at night has been great. Before I used them it took me two hours to get back to the dorm--and waiting late at night at a bus stop was a little scary. So, a guy shows up with the van at 7:00. It's not too far and I should have gotten there in 20 to 30 minutes tops. We start out and once we get near the main part of town--there is gridlock. We sat in one spot for at least 10 minutes. No one was really moving. I assumed that this mess was from all of the road work they were doing--but this was ridiculous!! It was already 7:30 and we were still near the university--with quite a ways to go. As the time ticked on and we moved very little I decided to tell the guy to just go back. I was being picked up at 9:00--and at this rate I wouldn't even be there yet. The only problem was he didn't speak english and I didn't speak czech. (I had dropped out of my survival czech class) I took out my iphone and went to my czech dictionary app. I looked up the words "go back" and found them in czech and showed it to him. He pointed to the opposite direction we were going and I said" yes--dorm". He understood and headed back to the dorm. That app. has helped me more than once here. I only wish it said the word for you because seeing it and saying it are nothing alike. I didn't get to go to the readings and it still cost me $15 for the trip. If it's still a cluster ^*&^% on Thursday for the readings I won't even attempt going.

On a good note. I found a real hamburger for dinner last night. It was in a nice czech pub that I found somewhere near the dorm. It kind of reminded me of a Chilis or something like it. The burger was big and juicy and made out of real ground beef. Just to make sure I did have to ask the waitress what kind of meat it was. I didn't want to be surprised again. I couldn't even eat it all. I'll probably bring some of my friends there before we leave.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Hot Water Again!!!

I'm happy to say that the hot water has finally been turned back on in my dorm!! I actually spent last night in a hotel. It was the the Hotel Hoffmeister. They had an accessible room--but it wasn't really accessible to get to it. They actually had to help me down three steps at the hotel to get to the room in the garden courtyard. It was nice to actually get to take a hot shower there.

A friend of mine who is in the program rented a room at this hotel to have her birthday party. (Jacqui) A bunch of us gals sat around eating lots of junk and drinking different kinds of wine. Then Jacqui was so intrigued by a sign for a pizza delivery--PIZZA GO HOME--that we ordered pizza from them. It was very good pizza I must say. It was so fun hanging out with these ladies. It's amazing how close we have gotten in a fairly short time. We laughed and took lots of pictures of our goofiness.

It was rainy and pretty chilly this past weekend so I spent a great deal of it laying on my bed reading. I got through two books!! I am trying to read some of the books from our instructors and the Czech authors who have spoken to us. I haven't gotten around to Kafka yet--who is really big here, they have a museum dedicated to him, but I don't think it's accessible.

I also went to a farmer's market they had here in Davjicka. There were all sorts of booths around this park that is close to where I'm staying. There were some fruits and vegetables, the usual--but all sorts of other things too. It was mostly locals that go so not too many people spoke english. I had to kind of guess at what I was buying at times. I did strike it rich with some delicious pasteries. I've really come to love their pasteries here, especially the chocolate filled ones.

As this winds down I look forward to getting home--but not that long flight home. I'm actually dreading that part. No doubt that it will be stuffed full like my flight here--I long for the old days when you could actually score an empty middle seat and stretch out a little.

All that talk of pasteries has made me hunger for them. I think I'll go scout some out for after dinner.(or maybe for dinner!)

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Ready to Go Home

I haven't blogged for awhile now. I haven't found the joy in this country that I'm in lately. I was distraught when I found out that the much needed cushion that my husband sent from home was being held by customs. I couldn't believe that they would do that over a used cushion. My butt isn't doing well with this maddening terrain and was in great need of it. Add on the fact that the hot water has been turned off in this area where I live--for almost a week now--and you get me wanting to hop on a flight right now--and go home.

It just seems like everything is spiraling down. I seem to be in a free fall of negativity and am not sure how to get out of it. I did talk to Hana our in country coordinator about the cushion--she talked to customs and I did get it the next day. But I'm afraid it's a little bit too late--the damage is done. The hot water situation is crazy! I guess this time every year different parts of the city lose hot water for a week while they check the pipes. They do have a special shower room here at the dorm that does have some hot water--but you guessed it. It's not accessible to me. (what's new?) I've been taking sponge baths and washing my hair in cold water.

After having a melt down at the atrocities I am facing I looked at a flight to go home early. Much to my dismay, the "cheap-o" flight that I took wouldn't allow it. The price of a one way ticket home, of course, was as expensive as my round trip here. So here I must stay. I also found out while here that someone had gotten my credit card number and was trying to charge something over a thousand dollars!! Luckily the fraud department was on it--but I had to cancel my credit card right there on the spot--the one I brought to use here. I can still use my debit card, so I can still eat.

Then on Friday as I was finished with my class at the university, I was making my way down this funky tiny elevator that I have to use to get out of the building--and it wouldn't work. Luckily I didn't get stuck in it--but they couldn't get it working so I had to be hoisted down about 8 steps by a young lady and and old man to get out ! See!! Doesn't that just scream GET HOME NOW??

After that ordeal I went to Old Town to try and get something to eat. I went into one of the accessible restaurants (there aren't that many) and ordered a hamburger. I've been jonesing for one--haven't had one for almost a month. When she brought it--it looked strange. It had a bun, some lettuce and tomatoes--but it didn't look like the "ground beef" that was promised on the menu. I took one bite, mostly bun. The second bite--and tasted the meat. GROSS!! It was a Spamburger, not a hamburger!! I didn't eat anymore. The waitress wasn't friendly anyway so I finished my beer (that was good) and asked to pay. I told her it wasn't good--it wasn't ground beef. She said it was a "czech hamburger". I just got out of there--but wasted $15 on a spamburger that I refused to eat. I ate at Kentucky Fried Chicken for dinner tonight. It tasted sort of the same--but the chicken strips were soggy and not crispy. I guess I'll have to go to McDonald's here if I want a real hamburger with real ground beef.

Keep me in your thoughts and prayers. I could sure use them.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Has Anyone Seen the Old Royal Palace??

I got up bright and early so I could get a jump on my visit to the Prague Castle. It is a very popular place with tourists. I found some good connections on the bus and Tram and was there by 8:30. There were already several large tour groups going around in this big gaggle of humanity. They were of different languages--but the largest contingent was the Japanese. I wanted to get a tour guide or at least one of those audio guides that you take along your way and listen to the information at your leisure.

The ticket office wasn't opened until 9:00 so after wandering around a bit I went over to the ticket office to wait. There were some people already there so I took my place among them. A few young women came past us (they worked there) to open the door to begin working. A few from the group came to the door in the attempt to go in (it was 10 mins. before 9) and she rudely shouted (in English) "Okay! We don't open up until 9:00!" Of course, she would assume that these pushy people must be Americans. (they weren't--they spoke another language) When we were finally let in at 9:00 on the dot, I went to the counter to get information. I wanted a guide and I was told that I had to get an audioguide. (It cost 450 Kr--over $20) When I had gone the other day we were told that it was free for the disabled. (this is apparently not true). The woman was not helpful or friendly she acted like she was put out at having to wait on me. I took the audio guide and left--what happened to Czech hospitality? (must be the left over negativity from communism--although I think it was over before this gal was born!)

I went first to the St. Vitus's Cathedral. It usually gets really crowded so I wanted to get in there early. I got to skip the line which really had no one in it--to go in through the exit. It was so interesting as I listened to the history of each one of the areas. There were many tombs of the saints buried there. The beauty and grandeur of the place was very humbling. Everywhere you looked there was beauty and art. The stained glass windows were just so intricate and detailed--each one with it's own flavor of the time. I spent over an hour in there absorbing the feeling--I really didn't want to leave but I had more to see.

I tried to go to the Old Royal Palace--but kept getting lost. The map showed it but there weren't any people around to help so I ended up at St. George's Basilica. It is said to be the oldest of the churches there. It was very plain--with a few of the tombs of the saints interred there. There were some steps that I couldn't go up--but I think I got to view most of it. Going over the stones to get to some of the buildings we extremely difficult. They were really textured and stood out enough for me to have to almost pop a wheelie over each one.

I went back where I thought the Old Royal Palace was. The brochure and books I read said that the entire Castle is wheelchair accessible so I was counting on getting to see a lot. I went down this very steep textured cement ramp to something called the Story of Prague Castle. At the bottom was a rather small building with a small step to get in. I popped myself in okay. Then they had these two very steep metal ramps heading down some steps. I figured I could probably get back up that okay--but was worried about the long ramp I had gone down to get there. There wasn't much too look at there--lots of reading which I wasn't in the mood for and some artifacts in glass cases. I made my way out--and headed up the ramp. I made it up half of it until the tough part. I figured if I looked like I was struggling (which I was) someone would come and help me--and they did.

I actually saw several other disabled people out today! (gimps day out?) Some were pushing themselves--it gave me some hope for these people. I hope they had better luck with the accessibility of the castle than I did.

I went to the picture gallery where they housed lots of paintings. Most of them were religious in nature but not all. The gallery did have these small lifts to get me to several of the different levels. Again, after viewing the pictures I tried for the Old Royal Palace. (was it hiding from me in plain sight?) I happened to run into one of our program coordinators there. (Margaret) She helped me to find the Old Royal Palace which happened to be a place that I had passed and checked several times. There were stairs into the entrance but I found a lift which climbed the stairs. However there wasn't anyone there to run the lift and it required to key to work. Margaret went in to ask for someone to operate the lift for me. I waited....and waited. Finally a lady came out and said there was no one there to help so I would have to wait ten more minutes. I did. Then she came out with another lady saying they were going to carry me up the stairs since she didn't know anything about the lift. I refused this as they didn't look like they could handle helping me. (I had a feeling they would have dumped me.) Then she told me to go around to the exit where there weren't any stairs. So, I bumped and bounced my way over there--and when we came up to it, there were stairs. The longer, wider ones--but not ones I could negotiate on my own. The exit lady was pretty rude too. I left there feeling frustrated with the whole situation.

I had been there over four hours and decided I'd had enough. I went back to the ticket office to return my audioguide. There were long crowded lines in which people pushed in front of me not caring as long as they got what they had come for. (sometimes I just hate tourists) I got my driver's license back, which I had to leave as a deposit and left there. I thought it would be nice to enjoy lunch there before I left. Many of the places I tried had steps so I headed to the tram stop. I passed one restaurant that didn't have steps and had an outside patio. I went and sat down. It was quite expensive but I decided that I would eat there anyway. I had grilled chicken breast. It came with nothing else and you had to buy any other sides. I had some potatoes and a salad with it. It was okay but not worth the $30 that the lunch cost. The best part was my gelato I had while waiting for the tram home.

I was hot and exhausted when I got home, It kept thundering and threatening to rain but never did. I was glad it was cooler today than the past week had been. I'd have to say that I was disappointed with the Prague Castle. Their boasting of it been so accessible is more hype than truth. Maybe I just needed a real guide to show me these entrances. I never did get to see the Old Royal Palace...oh well.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Back Up and Running!

Well, thanks to the kindness of Matous, one of the student assistants in the program--I got my tire fixed. It was so depressing to think that I might have had to try and push around on those cobblestones with a flat tire--thank God I didn't. I can't believe it's Friday already--my time here is just zipping by. I've been here two weeks. I don't feel like I've really gotten any great sight seeing in (no set tours or anything). I'm hoping to get to the Prague Castle again tomorrow and spend many hours there. It's one of the few places that is totally accessible so I need to take advantage.

Speaking of sight seeing, My workshop group went out to lunch at this nice vegetarian restaurant as a nice farewell to our instructor and a few students are also departing. The restaurant was kind of like a buffet style and you choose things you want (most aren't identified in english) and then you pay for the weight of the food. It can be a crap shoot on what you get--but the vegetables are pretty easy to distinguish. After our delicious healthy meals several of us decided we needed some gelato for dessert. (I love gelato!) So, we headed to the center of Old Town Square. As we were eating our gelato (by the way--they give such a tiny little scoop, most Americans need two or more to equal on "american scoop") We were standing by the gelato stand which was a busy place--it was near the astronomical clock which is always very crowded. We all have been warned and warned about these pickpockets that work the tourist areas. They are indian looking people (by that I mean from India) who work together in pairs or more and usually bump into someone and causes a distraction while the other steals the wallet or purse. They call them gypsies (and they say that that's a derogatory term). We saw them in action--but a young guy, who was obviously not a tourist was knowledgeable of their schemes--ran up to the lady who was ready to make her mark and warned her off. I don't know what he said because it was in Czech but it didn't sound too nice. I think the lady (the potential victim) was very lucky and she didn't even know that she was in danger of losing her valuables.

As we were walking back toward the University--one of the gals spotted an interesting museum that all four of us wanted to investigate. It is called the "sex machines museum." Who wouldn't want to check out what that was about? We went in and there weren't tons of steps to get in so it looked promising. But I soon found out that it was on three floors, there was an elevator but it didn't actually stop anywhere but the owner's apartment at the top. So, I bid farewell to my friends to go in and explore--with the promise of a full report of what they saw. I'm pretty much used to not being able to check out things I'm interested in--but it gets old. There is also a museum of communism that isn't accessible either along with many others.

Today in our workshop we focused on my piece of writing. I was a bit apprehensive about it. You read aloud a part of your essay. Then the group discusses their thoughts and questions about it. (while the discussion is happening you are only able to listen--but not talk or respond to anything--that's the hard part!) Then you can ask questions you have or respond to some of their responses. It was quite helpful. My piece was on the fact that I was born with my disability and didn't have a story about how I was hurt. I see I still have work to do on it to revise it and to change it--but it was very helpful. I've done some insightful writing about how disabled I feel here and how thankful I am to live in America. The Czech disabled people don't seem to have the rights that I take for granted. Just using public transportation has been a big eye-opener. I am constantly at the mercy of the schedule and of the drivers. Today the tram was 10 minutes late--which is unheard of. It was the accessible one that I need to get to my next connection.(there is usually only one--two if I'm lucky each hour) Since that one was late, I missed my bus connection by a few minutes--was I ever pissed. I had to wait almost an hour for the next one. It's at this real desolate stop that doesn't have anything that you can do. It was another 95+ degree day--and I was not a happy camper. The sweltering heat here has been difficult. Very few places are air conditioned. I'm so thankful I bought a fan for my dorm or I wouldn't get any sleep.

I'm getting a little hungry so I may head to my chinese/gyro restaurant down the street for a bite. There's not too many restaurants or pubs that are accessible in this neighborhood, that's why I usually eat when I'm near the university. Hopefully I'll have some interesting facts about the Castle tomorrow.

Cau